The price of an HRV or ERV install usually depends less on the unit than on the work around it: how ducts reach each room, how easy those routes are to get to, and what has to be opened up and repaired. Because that varies so much from house to house, the number that matters is an itemized quote for your home.
Why there's no price list here
Published price ranges for HRV and ERV installs vary widely and rarely say what's included, so this guide sticks to what moves the price. Two quotes for the same house can differ a lot because they describe different jobs. Knowing the cost drivers helps you see why, and ask the right follow-up questions.
The unit: size and type
Installers size the unit to the airflow your home needs, which depends mainly on its size and, under common methods, the number of bedrooms. The Building America checklist ties the target ventilation rate to house size and says equipment should be chosen for that rate and your climate. A bigger home generally needs a unit that moves more air.
Within a size, models differ in fan efficiency, filter options, controls, and whether the core is HRV or ERV. Ask each installer why they chose the model they quoted, and whether a comparable one would change the price.
Ductwork: usually the biggest variable
There are a few broad ways to connect a unit to the house, and they cost very different amounts.
- Fully ducted. The unit has its own supply ducts to bedrooms and living areas and its own return ducts from bathrooms and other damp rooms. Building Science Corporation calls this the most effective option, and also the one with by far the highest installed cost.
- Connected to furnace ducts. The unit feeds fresh air into the existing heating and cooling ducts. Natural Resources Canada notes that separate ductwork may still be needed to pull stale air from damp rooms.
- Single-point or limited ducting. Fewer ducts mean a lower first cost, but Building Science Corporation notes these setups don't distribute air through the whole house.
If your goal is fresher air in a particular bedroom, make sure the cheaper layout actually reaches it.
Access: open framing or finished rooms
This is often the difference between a modest job and a large one. The Building America Solution Center notes that if the unit and duct connections go in an accessible space like a basement, the work can be fairly simple. If ducts can run through an open basement or attic, walls and ceilings may be left mostly alone.
When drywall or other finishes have to be removed and repaired, the same source says costs can be substantially higher. A finished basement, or upstairs bedrooms with no open attic or chase to reach them, can mean more opening up, patching, and painting. Ducts that run outside the heated space, such as through an unconditioned attic, need insulation as well, which the checklist sets at R-8 or more.
Holes in the outside wall
A balanced system needs two outdoor hoods, one for fresh air in and one for stale air out. Each is a hole through the wall or roof that has to be sealed against air and water. The Building America checklist says the exhaust should be at least 10 feet from any air inlet and shouldn't blow onto a walkway, which can limit where hoods go and how long the duct runs are.
Controls, electrical, and drains
A basic wall control may come with the unit. Timers, boost buttons, and humidity or CO2 sensor controls can add parts and labor. A CO2 control is often a separate wall-mounted sensor, and it's the part that lets the unit speed up when a bedroom needs more air (getting a bedroom to 800 shows a few). Ask whether the unit needs a new outlet or circuit nearby, and whether that electrical work is in the quote.
In cold climates, some units also need a condensate drain line, which has to be routed somewhere it can empty. Building Science Corporation notes that in cold climates the system must be set up to handle condensation, so ask whether yours needs a drain and where it will run.
Permits, balancing, and commissioning
A permit means a fee and an inspection visit. Balancing and commissioning means time on site measuring airflow at each grille with a flow hood, flow grid, or anemometer, then adjusting it. That step is worth paying for: it is how you know each room actually gets the air the design promised. A quote that seems low may simply leave it out.
Rebates and incentives
Programs that help pay for ventilation vary by utility and state, and they change. Rather than relying on any amount you read online, check the current offers for your zip code with the ENERGY STAR rebate finder, your electric and gas utility, and your state energy office. Read the program rules before you sign, so you know whether anything has to happen before work starts.
Before you price anything
Measure your bedroom air first and try a free change. Some rooms get fresher with no equipment at all, and if a system is still the answer, your room report helps every installer quote the same job. HouseExhale is built around that order.
This week: Map the path the ducts would take
- Walk from where a unit could sit (basement, utility room, or attic) to each bedroom, and note whether the route crosses open framing or finished walls and ceilings.
- Mark two spots on outside walls where hoods could go, at least 10 feet apart and not blowing onto a walkway.
- Take photos of the routes and spots and bring them, with your room report, to each installer visit.
- Look up current offers for your zip code on the ENERGY STAR rebate finder and your utility's website.
Sources
- Building America Solution Center (PNNL): Whole house ventilation strategies for existing homes
- Building Science Corporation: Info-611: Balanced ventilation systems (HRVs and ERVs)
- Natural Resources Canada: Heat recovery ventilators (2012)
- Building America Solution Center (PNNL): Balanced HRV/ERV checklist
- ENERGY STAR: Rebate finder